Symptom → system → check
Pedal pulsation
- Disc: rotor thickness variation (micrometer at several points around the rotor), lateral runout (dial indicator), loose wheel bearing, uneven lug torque. Disc brakes
- Drum: out-of-round drum; measure it, then machine or replace. Drum brakes
- ABS: pulsing with pump noise on a dry, slow stop is false activation, from a cracked or dirty tone ring or a bad wheel speed signal. Electronic brake control
Pedal sinks under steady pressure
First rule out an external leak at the wheels, the lines and the joint between master cylinder and booster. With none, fluid is bypassing the master cylinder cups inside the bore. Hydraulics
Low pedal, firm when pumped
Too much shoe-to-drum clearance from self-adjusters that do not work, or air in the system. Check the rear adjustment before you bleed.
Spongy pedal
Air in the hydraulic system: a master cylinder installed without bench bleeding, air trapped in the ABS hydraulic unit, or fluid that has taken on water and boils when hot. A swelling hose feels the same.
Hard pedal
Lost power assist. With the engine off, pump out the booster reserve, hold the pedal and start the engine: it should drop slightly. If it does not, check engine vacuum or the auxiliary pump, the check valve and the booster diaphragm, or the hydro-boost supply.
Pull while braking
If the car drives straight but pulls when braking, look at the brakes: a seized caliper piston or slide, a collapsed hose that holds or blocks pressure, linings soaked with grease or fluid. A pull that is also there while driving belongs to tires or alignment.
One wheel grabs
Contaminated linings, a loose caliper or a faulty valve in the ABS hydraulic unit, the last of these being a case the study guide’s samples use.
Drag that builds with each stop
Brakes that tighten after every application, and release for a while after bleeding, mean fluid cannot return past the master cylinder compensating port: wrong pushrod length or swollen cups. A single dragging wheel is more likely a caliper or hose.
Vibration, but a steady pedal
If the steering wheel shakes while braking but not while coasting, the front brakes are the source. If it shakes while coasting too, look at the tires and wheels.
A pedal that drops at engine start is normal
Hold the brake pedal, start the engine, and the pedal moves down slightly as vacuum assist builds. That is the booster test passing, not a fault. A two-technician item that blames the diaphragm or the check valve for it is asking you to say “neither”.